Top ten places for lighting in Bangalore

http://bangalorebest.com/Interior-furniture/best-top-10-lights_lighting-in-bangalore.php

Granite info

http://www.naturalstoneindia.com/granite-floor-tiles.html#kashmir-white
http://www.mybdasites.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=5868

White Granite : Platinum White, Silver White, Zorro White, Imperial White, White Galaxy, White Tiger Green Granite : Kuppam Green, Hassan Green, Tropical Green, Apple Green, Rakhi Green, Mokalser Green, Seaweed Green, Forest Green Brown Granite : Golden Brown, Indian Juprana, Copper Silk, Indian Mahogany, Sapphire Brown, Ivory Brown Blue Granite : Ocean Blue, Sky Blue, Lavender Blue, Sapphire Blue, Himalayan Blue Red Granite : Lakha Red, New Imperial Red, Maple Red, Multicolor Red, Ruby Red Pink Granite : Chima Pink, Imperial Pink, Rosy Pink Grey Granite : Bala Flower, Sierra Grey, Silver Pearl, Sardinia Grey Black Granite : Black Pearl Yellow Granite : Raniwara Yellow, Crystal Yellow, Rose Silk, Tiger Skin, Siva Yellow, Sunrise Yellow, Marigold Cream Granite : Ghiblee, Royal Cream, Raw Silk, Ivory Chiffon

Granite inlay designs & other designs

http://www.tictacdesigns.com/granite.html
http://www.preethamgranites.com/flooring-type/nggallery/page/3

Floor laying cost - Tiles and Granite

Source
http://www.mybdasites.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=5971

 Total Laying Cost Breakup for Vitrified Tile and Granite

by satya79 » 17 Apr 2014, 15:39

Hi,

Would any of you be kind to enough explain to me the break up of the "Total Cost of laying a vitrified tile per square feet" using a base price for a tile.

I am basically looking for break of the various cost involved in laying a 1 sq feet of tile not just labour cost. Say for example if i were to lay 1 sq feet of a vitrified tile what would be cost for -

Cost of Cement for per sq ft of laying tile -
Cost of Fine Sand for per sq ft of laying tile -
Cost of Brick Blast for per sq ft of laying tile -
Cost of Coarse Sand for per sq ft of laying tile -
Cost of White Cement for per sq ft of laying tile -
Cost of Cement for Base course for per sq ft of laying tile -
Cost of Acid Wash and Polish for per sq ft or laying tile (if required) -
Cost of Labour for per sq ft of laying tile - Rs 15-25 (This i am aware)
Cost of a Vitrified tile per sq ft - Rs 60-90 (As per current market rates)

Similarly i would like to know the cost break of laying 1 sq ft of Granite.

I would be really thankful to you all if you can help me figure out this cost break up. Going by the knowledge i have so far, there is more to the cost involved in laying a tile than just tile cost and labour cost. I would like to understand the cost of other work involved.

Regards,
Ravi

satya79

Posts: 14

Images: 0

Joined: 03 Oct 2013, 21:00

Top

Re: Total Laying Cost Breakup for Vitrified Tile and Granite

by blorebuddy » 17 Apr 2014, 17:33

I got a quote something like below for a Sq. Ft.
Laying tiles
1) Labour 18 Rs.
2) Morter 15 Rs.
Total 33 Rs. per Sqft

Granite Laying cost
1) Labour 32 Rs.
2) Morter 15 Rs.
3) Whitecement (Birla) 6 Rs.
Total of 53 Rs. per Sqft

blorebuddy

Posts: 59

Joined: 12 Aug 2011, 11:40

http://www.slideshare.net/designcareer/daapl-approximate-quotation-for-interior-contracting-work

Where to Buy Hinges & Fixtures in Bangalore - Discount amount

Options are mentioned here: http://www.homedesignbangalore.com/2010/06/shopping-for-interiors-recommended.html

Following post discusses where to buy hinges in Bangalore
http://www.mybdasites.com/viewtopic.php?t=5808&p=27936

Re: Buying experience Hinges and Fixtures

by kraghum » 05 Mar 2014, 10:10

Buying experience

I started from Commercial street. Their is a shop called V Dass, and he stock commercial variety materials, no discounts/anything. he says a price and no more reduction on that.

Paramanand, he stocks branded one like Magnum, offers 30% discount+Vat.

City Market, SJP Road.- After touring most of shops around Kilari Road and Go-down street, i found Esskay Agencies in Go-down street give a good deal. he said he has big show room in Jayanagar as well. he offered 35% plus some more reduction in final bill with VAT. he is stocking all the major Brands and supply to most of reputed builders (Pashmina, Brigade etc)

Plan to buy my next purchases from Him, he has Yale,Assa,Kich,Magnum etc and offers decent price compared to other. i received my magnum Hinges (Brass with steel coat) with bearing and quality is worth the prices. the minute details like each pack is accompanied by a sticker which carpenter can stick on each Hinges and peel it off when painting and polishing complete thus still getting back it's luster

Raghu

Different Types of Wood for Doors & Windows - Pros & Cons

Following Post discusses the pros & cons of different types of wood:
http://www.mybdasites.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=5978

Sudan Teak for Door Frames

by Aarush84 » 22 Apr 2014, 09:44

Hi,

Im in the middle of finalization of wood for door frames. 

Not going with; 

Red sal bcoz it will crack & thr will be bend in long run. 

Honne wood if not properly painted & if it comes in contact with water it will strains the flooring with red colour.

Burma Teak- Investemt is too high-4500 per CFT

Oil Sal--- Hearing it for the first time no idea reliability.

Im planning to use Sudan teak for all the Vascals(door frames) instead of Burma Teak due to cost factor. Sudan teak will cost us around 2500 per CFT, which is bit more than honne but we can polish this wood & one can have a premium look.

Since for the first time im going to use this wood & moreover Sudan started Exporting this in the year2013, Just need to know feed back/advice on going with Sudan teak.


Thanks & regrads,
Anil

Aarush84

 

Posts: 14

Joined: 14 Feb 2014, 12:35

Re: Sudan Teak for Door Frames

by Nivas » 03 Jan 2015, 06:22

Its a myth that some woods does not take polish, spread largely by uneducated experienced carpenter and painter community. Painters and Carpenters save a lot of labour and polish if you go for teak, that's why they don't even mention\Suggest other woods other than relatively softer hardwood like teak.
Polishing wood is a art and one needs to be aware of the new age materials on market, it can be done to any wood ,but with different effort ,cost and different materials. with teak the scraping is easy and you can do it with just sealer and top coat and be done in just 2 or 3 coats. For other woods it requires different treatment . For example Sal and Honne, the fiber structure is different you need to use different materials and different technique. I have some polished Honne(PU) and some local woods in my building, 

Teak is imported from Sudan,Benin, Ivory Coast, Tanzania, Ghana(main African countries) etc , Nicaragua , Equador, Brazil ,Myanmar outside africa majorly etc. African ones are mostly plantation types b/n 10 to 30 yrs with unmatured heartwood and lot of sap wood (white) and is imported and sold Green. 80 to100% moisture. Teak with so much sap wood and moisture will crack and warp like any other green wood. Just because its teak why ignore white wood aka sap. Technically , the sap dries fast than heart wood and fractures and develops strains and cracks on the boundary and warps. 
any wood if Kiln Dried or seasoned properly will not warp or crack (sal,honne,Acacia,Matti etc). 

teak quality depends on the lot and girth imported . Vendors simply play with misinformation that Sudan is better than Ghana and v.v etc. However Myanmar is a different species Tectona Hamiltoniana endemic to that region only and best in characteristics. whereas rest is Tectona Grandis. Looking at the bias towards teak in the consumer and carpenters , the vendors keep a high margin. The saw mill landed cost of imported african teak cut size is 1200 to 1600 Rs Per Cft (Same as local wood ,neem etc) or less and for logs it is 800 to 1200 Rs per Cft. Paying more than Rs 2000 is not justified.

Nivas

 

Posts: 106

Joined: 07 Jun 2012, 12:24

Top

Re: Sudan Teak for Door Frames

by Nivas » 03 Jan 2015, 11:12

Worm \ beetle , borer infestation in Hardwoods is the least problem . The moment the moisture drops around 15% or less,life ceases to exist inside wood. Provided you seal it with Bitumen paint on the surface in contact with wall and rest of surfaces adequately sealed or painted. 
Having said that there are woods that are naturally resistant to borers. Neem happens to be one among them. But one need not select wood mainly on pest resistance. Local neem tree wood has highest oil content and its rarely available. Some of them are imported ones and could be from Melia Dubia (jungle neem) tree which is of low quality , check the origin from the vendor,if imported ,ask him to give the name as given in the import data. Take a sample and get it tested . 

a) Which wood is better for window/door frames and window shutters considering cost effectiveness and durability?
if you choose to Paint , 
Window \ Door Frames \ Jambs : Some saw mills are stocking Gum Sal , Go for if its available. if its not available go for Imported Kiln Dried Red Meranti 
( Available b/n Rs 1100 to 1300 ). Neem is also a very good wood.
For Bath Room Door Frames : You can use WPC frames. They are water proof. 
Window and Door Shutters Australian Honne and Malayasian Merbau(referred as Merbau) is a very good option . 

If you wish to polish
Rosewood (Dalbergia latifolia) , Hunsur \ Dandeli \ Assam teak . ( 3000 to 4000) . 
Padauk ( Pterocarpus spp) , African imported ( Rs 2200 to 2500) 
Nandi ( Lagerstroemia Microcarpa\ Indica) , Matti or Iron Wood ( Terminalia Elliptica\Tomentosa) , Acacia (Mangium, Melanoxylyn etc) around 1500 to 2000 Rs . African teak is also a option, You can get the logs cut it might work out cheaper.
Rosewood you can get it from Forest depot auction for bonafide use, its a simple procedure one needs to register with forest department.
Imported woods, you can use Wenge (Rs 4000 , Black ) , Walnut , Iroko, Bubinga , Purple heart, I can suggest much more PM me.

b)How to check and ensure proper quality and seasoning of wood at the time of purchase?
Every Saw mill has moisture meter , insist on it, upon contact it shows the moisture level . Even with logs around 5 years after being cut , moisture can be as high as 80%. You can safely purchase anything around 40% . But during use it should be around 15% . Dryer than that it will crack and deform. Without moisture wood loses character. Do not plane the wood while buying, planed wood dries faster, however you will not be able to eliminate deformities after seasoning. hence only plane in between final use and Purchase. 

c) How many days we have to store the wood for seasoning before starting the carpentry work?
if you are buying logs or green wood > 80% moisture , you have a option of Kiln Drying @ 200 \ Cft cost 15 to 20 day schedule. Again depends on quantity . 
if you are just going for air drying , different wood requires different times and is different in different seasons. In between 1 and 2 months.

d)Any reliable and trustworthy place were we can buy proper quality and seasoned wood in Bangalore or nearby place?
Red Sal of Malaysian origin is available Kiln dried ,need to look for it , otherwise every saw mill sells Green wood only. you need to buy before hand 
and season it yourself or get it kiln dried.

Honne Shutters - how to prevent stains

Following post discusses how we can avoid Honne wood from staining:
http://mybdasites.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=5463

Wooden window costing

Post a reply

 

8 posts • Page 1 of 1

Wooden window costing

by ksvishal » 26 Nov 2013, 19:42

Hello,
I would like to know the present cost of windows with following materials:
1.Red Sal wood frames and Honne Shutters
2.Red Sal wood frames and Shutters
3.UPVC

Please mention in rates per sq.ft basis along with merits & demerits of them.

Regards,
K S Vishal

ksvishal

 

Posts: 9

Joined: 20 Jul 2013, 21:27

Top

Re: Wooden window costing

by vpbs_bak » 09 Jan 2014, 13:23

Vishal

Did you get any replies for this ? I'm interested too. Also as a 4th item, 

4. Red Salwood frame & teak shutters

P.S. is it ok to mix two different wood types for shutter and frame ?

vpbs_bak

 

Posts: 128

Joined: 07 Nov 2011, 21:05

Top

Re: Wooden window costing

by psavkur » 09 Jan 2014, 16:20

i have opted for this fourth option for all windows. my contractor mentioned this will cost about 30K in total more than the option 1.

psavkur

 

Posts: 9

Joined: 04 Oct 2013, 22:12

Top

Re: Wooden window costing

by sahu.mgse » 09 Jan 2014, 22:36

Dear psavkar;
what is reason going for teak-wood shutter with redsal wood frame.
did you go for painting or polish for window. 
sahu

sahu.mgse

 

Posts: 182

Joined: 10 Jun 2012, 15:13

Top

Re: Wooden window costing

by psavkur » 10 Jan 2014, 08:34

hi, my contractor was of the opinion that honne shutters tend to give out a reddish color when rainwater falls on them.
He is suggesting getting the teak shutters painted instead of polished as the shine from the polish will not last long.
We are yet to make up our mind.
Any inputs from the group?

psavkur

 

Posts: 9

Joined: 04 Oct 2013, 22:12

Top

Re: Wooden window costing

by selva » 10 Jan 2014, 09:53

If Honne shutters are painted properly nothing will happen, no color will come out. First we have to apply wood primer one coat, then metal patty then two coats of colour is more than enough to sustain rainwater falling. Over and above, chajja is there to take care of direct rain water falling. Teak shutters are costly from owner point of view and it is easy to work on from carpenter point of view, more commission from contractor point of view.

selva

 

Posts: 12

Joined: 16 May 2013, 09:22

Top

Re: Wooden window costing

by psavkur » 10 Jan 2014, 10:09

thanks selva for your valuable inputs.
i will ask the contractor to revert to the honne shutters then and ensure that the wood primer coat, metal putty and two coats enamel painting are done. Yes, as you said chajja will prevent direct water to an extent.
Is there any risk of honne shutters developing cracks vs teak shutters?

psavkur

 

Posts: 9

Joined: 04 Oct 2013, 22:12

Top

Re: Wooden window costing

by selva » 10 Jan 2014, 13:10

I am not sure about the cracks. But to my knowledge if the quality of wood is good and seasoned properly, i don't find any reason why the shutter ( 1" - 1 1/2" thickness) has to develop crack.